A Constant Journey

Kungshamn

2011-07-20T23:21:00.001-07:00

Prospect of a cold rainy Kungshamn, well at least that is what the met office predicted for the next few days. Sure, we had a bit of rain, but the majority of the time it has been sunny, very sunny.

Lukas, Jorg and I headed off to the Saab museum in Tollhatan, which is also know in Sweden as Trollywood as this is where many of the Scandi films are made. Lars Von Trier's last film was made here. But back to Saab, all the current industrial news about the company centres on Saab being on the brink of bankruptcy. It would be a shame for such a distinct brand to collapse, but on the other hand they do need a new strong product. The original cars were great, with their aeroplane origins and bold curves.

Then off to Haverud to look at a five lock engineering feat.

Next day spent canoeing around Smogen.

On to Kungshamn

2011-07-18T23:47:00.000-07:00

Over the bridge and onto Fehmarn for the ferry to Denmark. A new country to add to the list. Konrad, for a 1 year old, is now well travelled having visited: Sweden, France, Germany, Belgium, Denmark.

Copenhagen. We decided to drive through the city. It was bigger and more developed than I had imagined. The Monocle review placing it as the No1 best city to live in globally some how created a more intimate and traditional image in my mind. As we navigated through the streets and waterways Julia and I started to get a sense of the design culture in the city. The architecture was innovative and the mix of old and new gave the sense of a well thought out and aesthetically cared for urban enclave.

A long slow slog in the rain up to Kungshamn. Julia and Konrad decided it was time to catch up on their beauty sleep.

587 Km (now on the continent and miles out of the window) 7 hours 17 minutes.

London to Grossenborde, Germany

2011-07-18T23:01:00.001-07:00

Last night spent packing. The interminable question 'do we really need this?' plaguing the proceedings.

Early to bed, early to rise. 3.30 up, left at 4.15 on the Chunnel at 6.20. Breakfast in France, well in the car in France to be precise.

I find the prospect of long distance travel exciting. It's not every bodies taste. The idea of long days stuck in a car fails to raise the heart beat of many of my friends. The thing I find is you get a perspective on the world, which is not realisable from the window of an airplane. OK, so I'm greedy and love air travel as well, but you can't beat the physical challenge of A to B by land and sea, especially if the final length of the journey is in excess of 4,500 miles. It's the possibility of what you find on route, not the tourist attractions more the way of life, how the world gradually changes and of course the prospect of reaching an area unspoilt and remote. I believe that the long you have to travel the more spectacular the the destination.

Konrad driving onto the train.

Traversing Northern Germany on the motorway system is not in the top ten of scenic drives. On the plus point, their acknowledgement of the motor car and it's potential meant we could push the Skoda to it's physical limits. Allan McNish watch out, team Stitt will be lining up on the Le Mans grid next to you.

Across the Rhine and through the industrial heartland. The sheer power of mans impact on the world can't be under estimated. Concrete, steel and plastic. The monumental scale of man's historical urban development is breathtaking although not aesthetically pleasing. I can't help but wonder what it is all really for.

Just sitting in the car, I can feel the stress of work and living slip away. This modern distinction between work and play, no longer do we live. It reminds me of the Yak Herders I spent time with up on the Tibetan Plateau who don't work, they live. Everything they do has an impact on whether they can feed their families. It's too simplistic to say they have it right, as their lifestyle is tough, hard and unrelenting, but it is simple. No desire to out do neighbours and friends, no urge to accumulate unnecessary wealth, though given a chance I'm sure that urge could arise.

Finally arrived at the Hotel Palstek. Konrad was a real trooper but by this time even his patience was wearing thin. A warm reception and more importantly a tasty bbq washed down with Flensburger Pils.

Konrad, after a day sitting in the car, decided that it was time to be hyperactive. Bouncing around the room until late into the night. I, on the other hand, couldn't keep my eyes open and drifted in and out of sleep from 8.30 pm disturbed by the odd head bang, slap and gurggle of excitement.

655 miles, 10 hours 47 minutes. A great day.

A New Legacy & Road Trip Excitement

2011-07-15T02:44:00.000-07:00

Yes I have been lazy, at least when it comes to blogging. Last entry was mid road trip in the US. To think so much has come to pass since that time. Well, it's not time to be nostalgic, it's time to look to the future and the next journey. This time Julia, Konrad (our one year old son, see I haven't been lazy) are heading off to Sweden with the ultimate destination being Nordkapp the most northerly point of Scandinavia.

Tents, hiking gear, rations, sleeping bags all laid out through the great efficiency of my wife. Four o'clock tomorrow morning and we are away.

Middlebury to Ann Arbor

2009-04-06T19:38:00.001-07:00

Monday, 6th April: Middlebury – Ann Arbor

Woke up to the see the world covered in a blanket of snow.

Breakfast at the beehive.

Were given 2 xhome made applebutter (a type of applesauce) one for us and one for our friend we are visiting in NY.

Into middlebury and then on to Shipshewana, saw lots of buggies and amish. I only know this way of life from the movies and so it seems odd to see people dressed in traditional costumes. Looks like a permanent fancy dress party!

Went to menno-hof museum to learn more about the Mennonites, Hutterites and Amish.

Back for lunch to Middlebury at the Village inn where the Amish come to eat.

Julia ordered the goulash – didn’t quite live up to her expectations.

On the road to Ann Arbour.

Quick drive through the university town – twinned with tuebingen, germany.

Checked in motel 6 – very new and modern.

Julia got dinner – difficult to find a supermarket –mainly just McDonals around. No change here.

Watched march madness basketball game (Michigan State versus South Carolina) and updated the blog.

Oh - Michigan just lost. Shame.

Chicago to Middlebury

2009-04-06T19:23:00.001-07:00

Sunday, 5th April: Chicago – Middlebury

Lazy morning after a late night

Brekkie at the argo tea shop across the road from the hotel.

Walked around downtown

Julia decided to spend hours, almost days, at CVS

To the anish kapoor bean and on to the art institute of Chicago.

On the way to CBOT (Chicago Board of Trade) it started to hale and then rain –saw mies van der rohe post office

Walked back to car and back on the road

Down to Middlebury, in the amish county of northern Indiana

Found beehive B&B on the internet and rang to get a room

Herb and Treva welcomed us into their home. It felt like staying with old friends as they were so friendly. We were introduced to their grand daughter Elyse and her fiancee. Evening spent chatting around the kitchen table where we learnt about the local area and the Amish.

130miles

Worthington to Chicago

2009-04-06T19:14:00.001-07:00

Satuday, 4th April: Worthington – Chicago

Up early on the road

Passing farming land in Minnesota

Straight down the I-90

Went for the scenic routes, i.e cross country, we cut down to Mason City, Iowa. Saw two buildings by Frank Lloyd Wright there.

Then along the 18, crossing Mississippiriver into Wisconcin.

Discovered that we are not far from Talisien North. Detoured there.

By now Martin had enough of the 55 miles an hour speed limit on the country roads.

At Madison we finally got back on Interstate straight down to Chicago.

Toll roads

First time we encountered traffic in a week

Hotel was a great location but crap. Rooms were still being cleaned when we checked in at 7pm.

Got a free drink – got in theroom at 9pm – not happy.

Brian Udovich gave us a few great recommendations of where to go in Chicago. So, went for dinner at pizzeria uno, drink at a brewery round the corner, and then watched blues at the blue Chicago. Great to be out and amongst people.

550miles

Keystone to Worthington

2009-04-06T18:29:00.000-07:00

Friday, 3rd April: Keystone – Worthington

Got up early, real early.

Pictures at Mount rushmore

Down to Crazy horse memorial – too expensive and not even ready! Nothing like working on a sculpture since 1947 – and too early as bus tours didn't start till 10am.

Went down to windcaves NP – great we saw Bison and wide prairie land

On the interstate to see Badlands – pretty cool and HUGE

Minuteman Missle HQ now a National Monument. The Minutemen were the US defence against Russian nuclear weapons. From receiving the order to launch was 5 minutes. Amazing this is the silos are right by Intestate 90.

Back on the I-90 east and just drove as we could – finally stopped at Worthington, Minnesota

Stayed in the days Inn – no dinner. Watched President Obama's town hall talk to the students of Straasbourg.

440miles

Hardin to Keystone

2009-04-06T18:04:00.000-07:00

Thursday, 2nd April: Hardin – Keystone

Breakfast at the motel, nothing like saving a few dollars.

Little bighorn battlefield – did the drive tour. Custer seems to have really screwed up here. Nothing like trying to attack the women and children to piss off the Indian Braves.

Over the scenic route via custer national forest to Devils Tower

Martin cooked great lunch in the sunshine at the foot of Devils Tower amongst the snow.

Went for a walk around the tower – got very deep in snow. Nice to be outside and catch some fresh air!

Praire dogs littered the plains, there were literally thousands of them.

Drove to Sundance (where Sundacne kid ot his name from). Was meant to be a nice little cute, quaint town – but no.

On the interstate into South Dakota to catch a glimpse of Mount Rushmore before the day was over.

Most – actually all hotels and motels – where closed for the season , we stayed in the only open one, got ripped off ($80) and the room was

Not great

Seemed like a ghost town with us the only ones there.

Restaurant closed at 7pm so we had a quick bite to eat. Martin had a fishburger and I had the most salty minestrone and a side salad with some artificial bacon – disgusting.

Didn’t sleep well – dreamt of all the movies with remote motels and lunatics it attracts.

340miles

Jackson to Hardin

2009-04-02T19:08:00.001-07:00

Snowed overnight – Julia cleared the car with gloves and the old faithful scraper from Sequoia – the keycard. So time to buy a real snow scraper.

Then it was off for a takeaway breakfast from the Bagelshop – yummy salmon and cream cheese.

Back into the park and we realized a bit too late (when it was snowing heavily and the roads covered in ice and snow) that we had chosen the wrong route – near zero visibility and no snow chains, crossing an 8,500ft pass. We were the only compact car on the road that day, having said this we only saw a handful of other cars!

Passed a lot of ranches after the pass – a lot of rubbish again in their gardens: they just seem to leave things to rust outside.

Mc Donalds for lunch – Julia felt bad later that day – not sure if it was the old egg or the McDonalds? The food on this trip has been dreadful. Wanted to stop in small Diners and eat with the locals, but so many towns seem to only have big chains nowadays.

Finally into Montana

Drove through Billings and stayed in Hardin, mt. – an Indian reservation, so there was gambling.

Martin cooked pasta and pesto – nice

Stayed in a cheap but very clean motel – American inn.

460miles

Jackson

2009-03-31T20:41:00.000-07:00

Lazy start to the day. Breakfast. Picked up some skis and headed off ski touring to Taggart lake in the Grand Teton National Park. At the end – bollocksed.

Evening in the Snake River Brewery. Rack of ribs and a few home brewed beers. Nice, very nice. Oh, and a final sharpner listening to Country and Western in the Silver Dollar bar.

Wendover to Jackson

2009-03-31T20:19:00.001-07:00

Wind. Non stop wind. Howling, bitter and frozen.

Stopped at the Bonneville salt-flats where the Yaris naturally broke all land speed records, but, unfortunately, they only set up the race way in the Summer. So this must enter the records as an unofficial record. Extraordinary geography. A crystal white land. Inhospitable. Beautiful. Cruel.

Then east via Salt Lake City.

Julia insisted, for once I am not joking, that I visit the Hill AFB museum. An aviation museum. Was even free entry!

Then North on Interstate 15 into Idaho.

Right at Idaho Falls to Wyoming. Arriving early evening in Jackson.

The news has constantly reported blizzards and extreme weather conditions. So far we have had pretty good weather

Mileage: 460 miles

Ely to Wendover

2009-03-29T21:43:00.001-07:00

Up early for a tasty nutritious McDonald’s breakfast. Off to Grand Basin National Park.

The scenery on this drive has been sublime. It’s bleak, barren and desolate. The further East you head the more you feel alone. Few cars on the road at this time of year.

Most of the park is closed due to snow. Went for a hike. Visited the caves. Lunch at the local bar – we were the only people there.

Off east to Utah via Delta and Tooele. Wanted to stay the night at the later but….was the usual strip of big brand names, so decided to push on to Wendover, where the Bonneville speedway track is located. Drove past salt factories, through mountain ranges and past the salt flats where land speed records have come and gone.

Wendover straddles the Utah/Nevada boundary. Half the town consists of casinos the other half, well of nothing but a few motels and run down houses. Stayed at the Kings Inn, think it’s a chain, but run by an Indian family from the Punjab. Dinner at the Nugget Casino via the Montego Bay. Both designed by colorblind interior designers on acid.

Mileage: 380 miles.

Road Trip begins LA to Ely

2009-03-29T21:26:00.000-07:00

After a day working at the Gold Company in Beverly Hills, at 5.45 pm I headed off to Sonoma. The journey proved to be less painful than expected. I guess a bucket of coffee and the Kings of Leon lessened the pain. Arrived in Sonoma at 1 in the morning. Vacation begins. Mileage: 450 miles.

OK, so I am conscious that the blog paints a picture of LA being a non-stop holiday. Well for the record nothing could be further from the truth. Last four-five months at the AFI have been brutal. The whole thesis film process is dreadful. The college is rife with politics and ineptitude. An expensive way to shoot a short film. I am proud of the film we made, reception has been fantastic and credit to Jeff (Cinematography) and Jeremy (Editor). There are good points and I must admit that I have developed some great connections and working relationships while at the AFI. I will explain with more clarity in another epistle.

Relaxing day in Sonoma catching up with Julia. Lovely evening with Michael, Julia and Alex at the Harvest Moon Café, even saw a side to Michael I never expected. He knows practically all the lines from Snatch and is even a big fan of Dr Doolittle, not the Rex Harrison version but the Eddie Murphy one! Scary.

Wanted to get up at six, but the plan fell apart. So I’m to blame for this. I overslept. On the road by nine and off through the green fields of Northern California. Straight down highway 80 to Sacramento then on to Lake Tahoe where we stopped for lunch and a stretch of the legs. The lake is beautiful and crystal clear. So good to be away from the concrete of LA. Drove round the lake and the headed east on highway 50, deemed the loneliest road in the US. It lived up to it’s claim. Beautiful but bleak Nevada. Desert surrounded by white capped mountains. Settlements like scabs littering the plains. Seems the idea of a garden and keeping it tidy is alien to the locals here. That is unless burnt out cars is a new form of rockery.

Through Carson City, the State capital, and on to Sand Mountain via Fallon.

Sand Mountain was extraordinary. There was a whole community of quad bikers and dune buggy enthusiasts. A whole village in the sand was set up, a modern day wagon train. Country/soft rock competed with the roar of V8 engines. Like ants, the vehicles careered up the massive dunes. The nearest comparison, a Mad Max village in the desert.

Through Austin and Eureka, where there is a famous Opera House. Alas no sign of Placido Domingo. Decided to head on for the night to Ely. Where we stayed at the Rustic Inn. Mileage: 550 miles.

Photos:

Camera

2008-07-14T04:48:00.001-07:00

Keep being asked what camera I use. It is a Lumix Panasonic DMC-LX1. I carry it everywhere excellent little camera.

Comments

2008-07-08T12:31:00.000-07:00

Been receiving great comments from people all over the world who have been reading the blog. Thank you so much. Really pleased that you are enjoying the pictures. Cheers

Across the Atlantic

2008-07-08T11:26:00.000-07:00

As we departed Sparrow’s Point I could feel the air start to clear. For the next 24 hours the ship seemed to be entombed in a dust cloud as the vessel shrugged off it’s mantle of black soot. The crew spent a large part of the voyage scrubbing the dust away. It got everywhere.

I am sure the steel works have left their legacy on the local community at Sparrow’s Point, Baltimore, as I suspect that lung disease must be higher than here than the national average. On this point, I watched a gang of workers clear up one of the ore spills. One man carefully put on a heavily soiled surgical style mask whilst his buddy happily sucked down a cigarette.

During our stay the security in the local area was high. It transpired that the Russian Oligarch who bought the mill was visiting. Despite this higher vigilance and increased police patrols nobody checked our details as we entered and exited the plant! I used the same taxi driver on a couple of occasions and he even ended up vouching for me at the same time joking to the security guard that I was a terrorist!! Claiming he sussed it out from my strange accent.

The local pilot navigated us out of the docks and then jumped ship leaving a young apprentice and his mentor to take us out to see. With the current we hit 21 knots. As the evening sun set we made our way out into the Atlantic.

Over the next couple of days we headed north up the eastern coast of America and Canada. The weather remained warm though the water temperature started to drop. So no more bathing in the ship’s swimming pool.

Days started off clear then growing steadily more and more misty. Reducing visibility to metres rather than miles. Very eery traveling at 18-19 knots blind.

Day by day the crew steadily cleaned and repainted parts of the ship. Happily dangling from bosun’s chairs from the cranes. They wiped the dirt away and repainted the hull. A definite Sysiphean task.

We then headed due East out into the Atlantic. The weather became progressively worse. With a strong swell rocking the boat by a good thirty degrees. Sitting writing in the cabin I found myself sliding from one side of the room to the other. Supper was an interesting affair especially the soup course.

Beda our steward had a major issue as the dinning room table repeatedly ended up on the floor.

Sleep was not easy. Almost every night the clocks went forward. In addition, the ship would roll from one side to the other and the constant throb of the engine and creak of the fittings meant it was difficult to find peace. I ended up using the earplugs happily provided in the room!

The sunsets were always magnificent. The sun sinking violently below the horzon splashing out vivid colours. When the clouds lifted the immense strength and beauty of the ocean made itself known. Despite the immense tonnage of the vessel one always felt in the hands of nature. We were mere visitors to this immense realm.

The Chief Engineer showed me round his empire. I thought my room was noisy, it was nothing compared to his domain. He happily showed me the engine, steer mechanism, purification plants, power generators, control room etc. An immense beast to keep running. The man was a veritable mine of facts and figures.

Over lunch we received the dramatic news that a distress call had been picked up. Falmouth coastguard, still a good three days away had received a mayday call from a trimaran heading to UK from the Azores. We were one of the closest vessels and tasked to go and assist in the vessels rescue.

So the course was altered and we headed due South towards the stricken vessel. The sees happily tossed us around as the swell worsened. Over the next five hours we headed closer to the ship. Slolwy news started to reach us. It seemed that a solo british sailor had run into trouble. Radio contact was poor and Falmouth and ourselves tried to ascertain what the problem was but with little luck. A second vessel, a Russian oil tanker headed to the location to assist.

Our Captain was concerned over the possibility of having to stop to rescue this ship. It wasn’t that he didn’t want to. It was a case of the difficulties and dangers of slowing down such a large container vessel especially when designed to be moving through these seas at 18 knots. Slowing the engine meant that the ship would be caught off balance and this could have a disastrous affect on the cargo especially as we were carrying 8,000 tons of steel which if dislodged could rip a hole in one of the cargo holds. In addition the crew would have to try and throw a line to the man and assist him up a scramble net. This would be about a 7-10 metre climb in rolling seas. So rescue out here would be no mean feat.

At 5 in the afternoon we caught site of the Russian tanker close by was the small trimaran heaving up and down in swell as if on the worlds scariest rollercoaster. The tanker started to make a pass to pick up the man, but first time was unable to do so. So the vessel turned and tried again, this time slowing almost to a standstill. The swell bucked and tossed the mammoth ship. It was a long procedure. Our bridge was full as everyone watched through binoculars. Finally the ship pulled away and we could see a man clinging to a scramble next hanging down the side of the tanker. A good half an hour latter and with the assistance of one of the tanker crew, who climbed down to assist, the man was finally pulled aboard. His ship was left to alone to be claimed by the ocean.

When I arrived in Hamburg I put a search out on the internet and found the following website about the boat: http://www.jesterinfo.org/nicholasbarham.html

The next day the Captain sent a fuel report to Rickmers HQ in Hamburg. He guessed that the total rescue operation would have cost the two ships approx US$ 40-60,000 in fuel and time.

Doc and Marion were good conversationist for the journey. Their choice of topic always steered round to US politics, in particular Obama’s campaign. They will be devastsed if he doesn’t get in.

Doc had an amazing background. His Father was originally from the Caribbean. He seemed to have done everything. Trained to be a pilot in the USAF, changing to air traffic control, worked as a merchant seaman, a cab driver in New York, trained as a doctor becoming a GP and then a psychiatrist. He worked for the navy attaining the rank of Commander. He worked in Nigeria during a coup. Promoted boxers in Vegas in his freetime and was elected the Mayor of San Bernardino. He moved to France three years ago and has just fought off cancer. His wife Marion was the daughter of one of the scientists on the Manhattan project developing the bomb for the US Government. I leant her a copy of Ron Howard’s “The Missing”. She didn’t watch the whole film as she found the film a little to close for comfort. After the war, whilst working for the Government, her Father disappeared. Some years later he reappeared as if nothing had happened only now he was working for a US civilian company. She never did find out what happened. But during the intervening years she learnt that she was constantly being followed and watched.

Stopped to ‘bunker’ (take on fuel) in Falmouth. Frustrating to be so close to home but unable to leave the ship. Found I had reception on my UK mobile. So spent practically the whole day on the phone. Wonderful opportunity to catch up with family and friends. I literally called everyone in my address book.

Finally off to Antwerp. The channel was busy with tankers and freighters forming up like the Spanish Armada.

Baltimore

2008-06-24T18:05:00.000-07:00

Spent the day in Baltimore. Another poor and rough city. The city centre was smart and prosperous looking but the suburbs were a different story. Rough, rundown and dirty. Seems like another area hit by mass unemployment. People I spoke to talked about the area previously being a home to manufacturing and fishing but now that has long gone.

Visited the downtown area with the key attraction being the National Aquarium.

Fab supper at Costas Crab Restaurant. Amazing steamed crab - 12 between two, hot and spicy! Rates in the 10 ten best meals in the US.

Washington II

2008-06-24T11:16:00.000-07:00

Next day up out and early.

Visited the Air & Space museum.

Hirshorn Museum.

Smithsonian.

Jefferson Memorial.

Franklin Roosevelt Memorial.

A couple of things have come up in my travels. You would never guess that the US is involved in two major wars around the world: Afghanistan and Iraq. There is no sign in any of the cities and there is little reporting on the TV at least not of the blood shed and injuries. TV and in particular news here is attrocious. Presented by plastic cut outs who look as intelligent as the veneer of makeup plastered all over them. The second is you could also easily miss the fact that the country is in an election year. Sure there are a few posters and badges for Obama. But that is it.

Had a taxi driver today saying that there is little difference between the Democrats and Republicans. In his eyes its all about money and the people are forgotten. He worries for the person who inherits the mantle of power from the present administration. I am sure the George W Bush library will paint it all in good light! Think he has a point as it seems. With presidential campaigns costing millions of dollars only the wealthy can consider standing for election. I wonder how democratic that is? Considering the amount of poverty I have seen over the last few weeks, what exactly is the American dream? Feel more Americans and their politicians should grass rots travel around the world and then decide if 'how america does it' is really the best system in this day and age. It certainly seems that super heroes and money is the perceived way to succeed.

Picked up some great story ideas during this trip so looking forward to putting fingers to keypad during the Atlantic crossing!

Headed back to Baltimore.

Washington

2008-06-24T10:54:00.001-07:00

Amtrak to the capital.

Wandered through the sites – Capitol Building...

National Gallery of Art...

Smithsonian portrait gallery...

FBI building...

Took the metro to Arlington Cemetry and the Iwo Jima Statue.

Lincoln Memorial….

Vietnam Veterans Memorial…

…and the White House.

Stopped for a fantastic supper of oysters and soft shell crab.

Stayed in a basic hotel and enormous expense!

Philly to Baltimore

2008-06-24T10:41:00.000-07:00

Morning in Philly nothing exciting this time as I did a bit of shopping and admin.

We have two new passengers. Doc and Marion. Doc is in his 70s from the US and living now in Nice France with his wife Marion. Charming couple. Our evening was spent discussing US politics and the state of the nation!

Early evening we headed off towards Baltimore.

By early morning we had arrived outside Baltimore. Spent the next 24 hours on anchor awaiting our berth to clear.

Next morning we headed into Sparrows Point. It was like entering the gates of hell!! We are collecting steel for shipment to Antwerp. The steel factory was black, dusty and stinks. You can feel the choking smoke rasping at your throat.

As soon as we docked I looked at heading straight out to Washington DC.

Philadelphia

2008-06-24T10:33:00.001-07:00

Now getting in and out of these US ports has been a doddle, security has been lax to say the least. Think it would be easy to get illegal immigrants etc through these facilities. Now as I passed out of Tioga this morning a customs vehicle pulled up. Guy asked what ship I was from and did I have a pass. Pulled out my passport and the customs official went apopleptic. Wouldn’t let me say a thing as I tried to explain I was a passenger. He was telling me to get back on ship, I shouldn’t have a passport, we needed to go see the Captain, this was definitely not on. Finally managed to say I was a passenger and a student studying in LA with a visa. Ahhhhhh. He quickly shut up.

Walked through Tioga to the Metro stop. Rough and poor neighbour hood.

Headed into the Philadelphia Arts Museum. Great place. It’s enormous. With a lovely collection.

Afternoon happily catching up on writing and drinking coffee.

Arrival in Philadelphia

2008-06-24T10:05:00.000-07:00

Woke up early at 4.30 and headed straight up to the bridge to watch our entry into Philadelphia.

The pilot was a young lady from Philly. We slolwly snaked our way up the river passed oil refineries and old forts and into the city of brotherly love.

Docked at the Tioga Marine Terminal. Was offered a lift into Philly by a Pakistani Catholic priest from Lahore who worked part time for the Seam Man’s Church. Now I thought that the key skill of a priest was to listen. This man was extraordinary. He could hardly speak English and wasn’t interested in anything anyone said. Asked me where I wanted to go and explained down town Philly and the cultural area. He then proceeded to drop me at a wallmart in a distant suburb! So then spent the next couple of hours walking out to a metro station.

There is a lot of unemployment and poverty in this city. The suburbs outside the core down town area are rough and depressed. Many of these area I was hiking through did not feel safe. Oh and the key dress for native Philly lads must be the vest. Everywhere I looked and kids walked round in sleeveless vests!

Finally ended up in the heart of the city. Visited the liberty bell, city hall, memorial to the unknown soldier. Fascinating.

By early evening I was starting to really flag. Spoke to Benji, a cinematographer from AFI and he kindly invited me to his stag do that night in Philly! Would have been fantastic to go along and was honored to be invited but by 8pm I was dropping on my feet and would have been no fun at all. So alas I was not able to participate. I guess it was a messy evening! Cheers Benji.

My taxi driver on the way back to the port happily pointed out where all the recent local murders and shootings took place. Nice.

Abandon Ship!

2008-06-24T09:58:00.000-07:00

There is a constant throb from the engine. The vessel is remarkably smooth very little roll in fact less than on a train. But the vibrations from the engine can be felt everywhere.

Abandon ship and fire fighting today. I have been allocated my place on the lifeboat!

Saw a pod of whales today.

As we passed Miami mobile reception popped up. Had a lovely conversation with Julia.

Afternoon spent in the ships swimming pool. In reality a small square box full of sea water. Love and warm sitting out in the Floridan sun. Only the odd soot particle from the smokestack to break the moment!

The food is pretty good on the ship. Cookie makes an effort with the limited resources he has at hand.

Time spent generally reading and writing. No internet, no mobile phones, no distractions.

Off to Sea!

2008-06-24T09:42:00.000-07:00

Cargo loading went on all night. Woke to find the ship sailing away from Houston. Great to be underway.

The ship’s Captain is a Mr Darko Falconi a strong reserved Croatian from Dubrovnik. Whilst the Chief Engineer is a Mr Eugeniusz Kolodziejczyk a talkative and enthusiastic Pole from Gdansk. The rest of the crew are a bunch of smiling Philippinos. They are fabulous always warm hearted and brimming with friendliness. Alas their English is a little weak so conversation is rather staccato.

On my first trip up to the bridge I was surprised to find one young philippino watching over the systems. I had expected to see a room full of bodies intently manning radar screens or clutching binoculars looking for elusive icebergs. Alas no such activity. The ship practically runs itself. The voyage is programmed in, the Captain keeps an eye on the weather reports and the companies HQ sends suggestions for routes according to their weather forecasts. Otherwise the ship is fully computerized.

Well there really is very little to do on board. The crew spend the day making themselves busy – painting, cleaning and prepping for their next port of call.

So the routine. Breakfast from 7.30-8.30, lunch 11.30-12.30 and supper 17.30 – 18.30. The officers sit at one table the guests as another. It’s an odd arrangement especially as there are only three of us at the moment!!! We are picking two more passengers up in Philadelphia.

Spent the evening with the crew and the Chief Engineer celebrating the third officers birthday.

Back into Houston and onto the Rickmers Antwerp

2008-06-13T11:16:00.001-07:00

Back in to Houston and stopped at the Rothko Chapel.

Then stopped in at the Houston Fine Arts Museum. They are just about to open an YBA (Young British Artists) exhibition feature Damian Hirst, Rachel Whiteread and Tracey Emin. No getting away from them.

Then off to the AV Rickmers Antwerp.

So this will be my home for the next three weeks! It feels like a giant industrial caravan. There certainly isn't any luxury here. The captain is Croatian his deputy is Polish and everyone else Philippino. Looking forward to no e mails or mobile phones. Bryan has given me some great notes for the script so feel good at diving into it!

Off late tonight to Philadelphia.

Bill Clinton country

2008-06-13T11:10:00.000-07:00

Stopped in Little Rock for a walk round. This really is a state with very little going for it. It was charming but safe.

Stopped at Hot Springs where Bill Clinton was born. It was a health spa during its heyday. Lovely old New York style buildings. Well worth considering for a period US film.

Then off again back towards Texas.

Spotted a drive in movie theatre and decided to take in a film. Was a fantastic experience. Wish there were more cinemas like this. It was a fantastic experience and a great way to see a film. Watched Zohan, was pretty funny and risky in places.

Mississippi and Gracelands, Memphis, Tennessee

2008-06-13T11:00:00.001-07:00

Have been bouncing off the freeways so as to get a real taste of how these states differ.

Gracelands – home of the King. Its tacky with everything aimed at getting you into a shop. The house is fascinating and a real nostalgia trip for everything 70s and kitsch. The man was extraordinary and talented. But the place feels as though its had it heyday. But well worth the pilgrimage.

Visited Sun studios where Elvis cut his first disc.

Memphis is pretty tired and rundown.

Headed off to Arkansas.

New Orleans

2008-06-13T08:45:00.001-07:00

Up early and a brunch of Gumbo. Fabulous.

Looked round the French quarter. New Orleans and the surrounding area were fascinating and I sense an extraordinary place to live in.

Wasn’t hard to find signs of hurricane Katrina. Most of the areas with money are up and running. But a massive swathe of the poorer communities are still in tatters. I’ve spent time in places like Afghanistan and Kosovo. There is an air of the same in these estates. Communities shattered. And just down the road are million dollar weekend houses with motorboats parked outside.

Rain opened up. It was brutal. Could not see more than a couple of feet. Short and sharp.

Stopped at Fort Pike honoring Brigadier Zebulon Pike. Could be a name for Carol and Iain? Old French fort protecting the waterways.

Headed out to Honey Swamp and was shown round by an ex US Marine Corps Captain who studied biology many years before. Spooky similarity. Fascinating tour. Alligaotrs in abundance.

Then headed off towards Memphis via Mississippi.

LA to Houston and on to New Orleans

2008-06-13T08:21:00.000-07:00

Zeke kindly dropped me at Central Station in Donwtown LA.

Climbed on board the Texas Eagle and chugged out of LA. Through Palm Springs and out into the desert.

Amtrak is a hidden gem. Tons of space. An observation car with panoramic views and very acceptable dinning car with pretty decent tucker. Left LA Friday at 2.30pm and arrived on time in Houston at 5.45am on Sunday morning.

Sat next to a charming African American from New Orleans. Calmly recounted his exploits during hurricane Katrina. A wonderfully humble centred gentleman called George.

The time flew by as I tucked into a number of scripts and worked through a step outline for ‘a fistful of pounds.’

Texas is not beautiful. It has its moment but by and large is pretty dull. We passed through Marfa and I managed to see Prada Marfa the art exhibit on I90.

There was a never a dull moment as the landscape dribbled by. Amtrak is not fast!

Hired a car and eager to look around heade off to NASA Houston. It’s a bit tacky but you do get taken around the facility seeing where mission control for the Apollo missions is and the training facility for the shuttle and the international space centre. So in the end very worthwhile.

Headed east towards New Orleans. Arrived late. Went for a fantastic Cajun meal on Bourbon street. Steamed spicey crayfish followed by Jambalaya. Now I like this cuisine – spicey and full of sea food.

Oh found the best street in the world!

Julia in hospital

2008-06-08T21:24:00.000-07:00

Horrible news. Julia is in hospital. Gave me the shock of my life. She was complaining about not feeling too good and the next thing she is taken into hospital. She has thrombosis on the lungs from too much air travel etc. The doctor has reassured me she is fine and they are happily (?) thinning her blood and the clots are receeding. Looked into coming home but Julia and then reiterated by the Doctor was insistent that I still come home via freighter ship. Will see what happens over the next few days.

Julia is now out of hospital. Though weary she is feeling much better. Friends and family have been wonderful. Lots of visits and support. Wish I had been there.

Last few day...

2008-06-08T21:23:00.001-07:00

Well end of term crept up. Have sublet my apartment to a second year cinematographer.

Visited the Richard Nixon Library with Amanda. Cunningly the Watergate room was closed for refurbishment. Will have to return to see how they present this side of the story!

Stopped of at BCAM at LACMA, the new contemporary art collection. Gread range of Jeff Koons, Basquiat, Damian Hirst, Warhol and two amazing 20 ton Richard Serra sculptures.

Supper with Dick and June.

Farewell supper with Kyle, Patryk, Zeke, Courtney and Amanda. Lovely evening at Café Stella in Silver Lake.

Then our last school commitment for the year: Presentation for thesis. Like most things at school, proved to be bit of a joke. Especially as they never asked why we wanted to shoot in February next year. Needless to say when the schedule came out we didn’t get Feb but early Dec instead.

Last meeting at BAFTA LA.

In the evening the AFI held a reception at the Sony Lot for all scholarship recipients.

Packed up flat and bags. Ready for the big offski!

Tijuana

2008-06-02T17:32:00.001-07:00

Last weekend in LA. Kyle Smith and I went over to Tijuana in Mexica to stay with his pal from North western, Ben Gilmore. ANother great weekend.

Tijuana is permanently overshadowed by the border fence. As border towns go its pretty rough and ready but with its own charm.

Ben and his Mexican girlfriend Renata took us out for some delicious and cheap meals at restaurants only a local would find.

We stayed both nights at Ben's Uncle's beach house in Rosarita. Ben has been living in Tijuana for a year brokering commercial property for his Uncle.

Visited Fox studios where Titanic and Pearl Harbour were filmed.

Very strong police and military presence in the city. Drugs, prostitution and kidnapping all major industries in the city.

Watched a boxing match at the Jai Jalaia stadium.

Channel Islands National Park - Anacapa

2008-06-02T17:18:00.001-07:00

Visited Anacapa, one of the Islands of the Channel Islands National Park. What an extraordinary place and so close to LA. Practically every LAite I spoke to had not visited the park. It is truly magnificent. Went over via boat leaving Oxnard, about an hour from Holywood on the 101. As we headed out of habour we were followed by a pod of 30+ dolophins. Then a plume was spotted and a humpback whale kindly jumped out of the water twice! The island was surrounded by californian seals. whilst seagulls protected their eggs/fuffy chicks and brown pelicans cruised the air like a beast from jurrasic park. Phenomenal day.